Suspension Lift Type Guide
Compare every lift type — from leveling kits to full custom link systems — to find the right solution for your goals and budget.
Leveling Kit
Easy$30–$200Raises only the front of the vehicle to level the factory rake. Typically a coil spring spacer, strut top spacer, or replacement upper strut mount.
Pros
- +Cheapest lift option
- +Bolt-on, no cutting
- +No geometry changes
- +Improves front look and headlight aim
- +Allows slightly larger tires
Cons
- −Front-only — doesn't raise ground clearance
- −Can wear CV joints faster on IFS vehicles
- −Limited tire size gain
- −No articulation improvement
Best for: Owners wanting to level factory rake for looks or to clear larger tires without a full suspension lift.
Spring Spacer / Budget Boost
Easy$100–$500Polyurethane or aluminum spacers installed on top of (or under) the factory coil springs. Lifts the suspension without replacing springs or control arms.
Pros
- +Affordable
- +Retains factory ride quality spring base
- +Bolt-on installation
- +Good ground clearance gain
Cons
- −Geometry not corrected — increased wear on ball joints and CV joints at higher lift amounts
- −Stiffer ride
- −Not ideal beyond 2"
Best for: Budget-conscious builders wanting real ground clearance gain without full suspension cost.
Body Lift
Moderate$100–$400Polyurethane or nylon blocks installed between the body and frame. Raises the body to clear larger tires without affecting suspension geometry.
Pros
- +No suspension geometry changes
- +Allows much larger tires
- +Relatively inexpensive
- +No CV/ball joint stress
Cons
- −Zero additional ground clearance
- −Visible gap between body and frame
- −Requires extended bump stops, shifter linkage, and sometimes steering shaft extension
- −Not useful for serious off-road
Best for: Trucks with IFS that need more tire clearance without the cost of a suspension lift.
Short-Arm Suspension Kit
Moderate$800–$3,000Replacement control arms, coil springs, and shocks engineered for the lift amount. Correct geometry reduces wear compared to spacers at equivalent lift heights.
Pros
- +Correct geometry for lift amount
- +Better ride quality than spacers
- +Significant ground clearance gain
- +Improved articulation over stock
- +Bolt-in on most platforms
Cons
- −More expensive than spacers
- −May require alignment
- −Factory control arm mounting points retained — limits total lift
Best for: Most trail-ready builds wanting 2–5" lift with proper geometry. The most popular upgrade for daily/trail rigs.
Long-Arm Suspension Kit
Hard$2,000–$6,000Relocates the control arm mounting points on the frame for much longer arms, dramatically improving caster and reducing pinion angle issues. Requires frame modifications.
Pros
- +Excellent geometry at large lift heights
- +Superior on-road manners vs short-arm at same lift
- +Maximum articulation potential
- +Required for 4"+ lifts on some platforms
Cons
- −Expensive
- −Frame cutting/welding required
- −Professional installation recommended
- −Not reversible without significant work
Best for: Dedicated trail and overland builds wanting 4"+ lift with preserved street drivability.
Coilover System
Hard$1,500–$5,000Complete spring-and-shock unit that replaces factory coils. Height is adjustable via threaded collar. Often paired with upper control arm relocation.
Pros
- +Height-adjustable with preload collar
- +Better performance than stock shocks
- +Fine-tune ride quality and spring rate
- +Long travel options available
Cons
- −Expensive
- −Requires correct upper control arm geometry
- −Complex installation
- −Travel needs matching bump stop/droop travel changes
Best for: Performance-oriented builds where ride quality, adjustability, and long-travel articulation matter.
Custom Link / 4-Link System
Expert$5,000+Full custom geometry with tube-fabricated 4-link or 3-link control arm systems, coilovers or bypasses, and often a custom cross-member. Maximizes articulation and geometry.
Pros
- +Maximum articulation
- +Fully optimized geometry for chosen lift/travel
- +Best possible off-road performance
- +Purpose-built for serious crawling or racing
Cons
- −Most expensive option
- −Requires fabrication expertise or professional shop
- −Not street-friendly in extreme configurations
- −Long build time
Best for: Dedicated crawlers, competition rock rigs, and extreme builds where no bolt-on option is adequate.
Quick Decision Guide
• Just need to level it: Leveling kit only.
• Cheap ground clearance and bigger tires (1–2"): Spring spacer or body lift.
• Best bolt-in upgrade (2–4"): Short-arm suspension kit — the sweet spot for most builds.
• Maximum performance (4–8"): Long-arm kit or coilover system.
• No compromises: Full custom link suspension with coilovers or bypasses.
• Always pair a lift with a re-gear when running significantly larger tires — see the Re-Gear Calculator.